Generally speaking, the closer these key components are to perfection, the more likely the watch will be loved by collectors, ultimately leading to higher prices on the open market. With vintage fake Rolex watches, however, there are always exceptions, and not all flaws and imperfections are necessarily considered undesirable.
While most cosmetic defects are considered defects that reduce the resale value of a watch, there are some defects that can be considered positive features by collectors today and can significantly increase the price of a watch with these characteristics. These particular defects are considered desirable primarily because they occur naturally – either due to material limitations or due to minor errors in Rolex’s near-perfect production process.
The bright blue dial is the same as that of the old two-tone solid gold Rolex Submariner watch, which can be converted into a variety of colors from turquoise to royal purple. Meanwhile, the white dial can turn into a rich cream color, while the silver dial can take on shades from pink to brown.
The anodizing process forms a colored layer on the surface of the aluminum insert. This layer may wear and fade from prolonged exposure to sunlight and salt water, as well as simple rubbing of fingers and clothing during regular wear and use. The colors fade over time, leading to their nickname of “ghost borders”.
Defects in the dial of the Rolex Submariner 16800 Spider
Rolex went through a transition period in the mid-to-late 1980s. The brand has introduced key updates aimed at delivering superior performance and a more luxurious overall feel to its timepieces. It was during this period that Rolex doubled down on movement design, and it was also during these years that sapphire crystal replaced the older acrylic crystal used in most of the brand’s products.
Over time, some samples began to develop faint cracks in their smooth black surfaces, a phenomenon commonly known in collector circles as cracking. These faint cracks only appear on the black background layer of the dial, which means that the white text printed on it is completely unaffected. These small cracks are usually only visible when viewing the watch from an angle in bright light, and their appearance is somewhat reminiscent of spider webs (hence the “spider dial” moniker).
Before switching to light-reactive luminescent materials, Rolex modified the dial and hands with radioactive compounds to make them glow in the dark. In the early 1960s, radium was deemed too dangerous, and cheap Rolex watches switched to the less radioactive tritium, which remained in use until the late 1990s. Therefore, most antique Rolex watches have tritium fluorescence on the dial and hands. Like radium, tritium-based luminescent materials have radiated light over the years. Not only is it often a good indicator of whether the dial and hands are original to the watch, but the unique aesthetic it offers complements the overall look of a vintage watch. This is one of the hallmarks of vintage Rolex watches.